Demond "Dee" Matthews started with a street food operation and has built Dee's Xquiste Seafood into two restaurant locations. This latest in New Orleans East is a major expansion with a larger menu and full bar. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
Demond "Dee" Matthews started Dee's Xquisite Seafood.
- PHOTO BY BRETT DUKE/The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate
Boiled seafood takes a turn over the grill for a flame-licked flavor, a key to the recipe at Dee's Xquisite Seafood. (Photo by Brett Duke, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)
- STAFF PHOTO BY BRETT DUKE
A heady garlic butter sauce is the finishing touch on seafood plates at Dee's Xquisite Seafood. The kitchen's motto is "we put sauce on everything." (Photo by Brett Duke, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)
- STAFF PHOTO BY BRETT DUKE
Sausage and corn fill a grill at Dee's Xquisite Seafood. Even the traditional boiled seafood sides get chargrilled flavor here. (Photo by Brett Duke, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)
- STAFF PHOTO BY BRETT DUKE
The "mamba package," a family-sized order from Dee's Xquisite Seafood, combines Dungeness crab, lobster, snow crab, shrimp and sides, all boiled, chargrilled and sluiced with garlic butter sauce, then packed to go. (Photo by Brett Duke, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)
- STAFF PHOTO BY BRETT DUKE
At the second location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood a much-expanded menu includes crab cakes, fried shrimp, seafood pastas, spinach dip and chargrilled oysters with garlic butter sauce. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
At the second location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood a much-expanded menu includes chargrilled oysters with garlic butter sauce. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
At the second location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood a much-expanded menu includes crab cakes finished with the house garlic butter sauce. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
At the second location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood a much-expanded menu includes seafood pastas, like this one with seared salmon. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
At the second location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood a much-expanded menu includes seafood pastas, like this one with seared salmon. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
From its start as a street food operation Dee's Xquiste Seafood has grown to two restaurant locations, and this latest in New Orleans East is a major expansion with a larger menu and full bar. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
The new location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood in New Orleans East has a much-expanded menu, including dishes like fried shrimp with sweet heat sauce. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
Demond "Dee" Matthews started with a street food operation and has built Dee's Xquiste Seafood into two restaurant locations. This latest in New Orleans East is a major expansion with a larger menu and full bar. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
3 min to read
Ian McNulty
Demond "Dee" Matthews started with a street food operation and has built Dee's Xquiste Seafood into two restaurant locations. This latest in New Orleans East is a major expansion with a larger menu and full bar. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
At the second location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood a much-expanded menu includes crab cakes finished with the house garlic butter sauce. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
At the second location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood a much-expanded menu includes seafood pastas, like this one with seared salmon. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
The new location of Dee's Xquiste Seafood in New Orleans East has a much-expanded menu, including dishes like fried shrimp with sweet heat sauce. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)
It started with a three-part recipe and the kind of grind that propels a good idea from the backyard to the street to a full-time restaurant. Now, that same equation has brought a second location of Dee’s Xquisite Seafood to a part of town in need of new restaurants.
This new iteration of Dee’s Xquisite Seafood opened last week on Lake Forest Boulevard in New Orleans East. It’s a major step up from the first Dee’s, which opened in 2020 as a takeout shop on St. Bernard Avenue. Dee’s No. 2 has table service, a greatly expanded menu and a large bar in the center of the operation.
But even with a new menu that runs through po-boys, pastas and seafood platters, Dee’s still revolves around the distinctive way with boiled seafood that founder Demond “Dee” Matthews devised, and it’s one that doesn’t stop at the boiling pot.
It starts with Dungeness and snow crab legs, shrimp and other shellfish that are first boiled to soak up spice, then run over the grill to add a whiff of smoke and fire, and finally splashed with a heady garlic butter sauce.
Boiled seafood tossed in sauce is a trend that has been growing in recent years, with the Viet-Cajun template being perhaps the best-known style. Matthews made his own approach, bringing that flame-licked flavor.
When a batch arrives before you, there’s an aromatic wave of butter, garlic, herbs and cheese. The butter sauce gets into the crab and shrimp and sides as you pull apart meat from the shells. You take a few more paper towels off the roll and keep going.
Brotherhood and boils
The story at Dee’s has always been propelled by family, and Matthews defines that in a way that goes beyond his blood relations.
Dee’s Xquisite Seafood started as a street food side gig for Matthews, who was working full time as a mental health tech at University Medical Center. On the weekends, he sold plates on the sidewalk outside of bars on North Claiborne Avenue and by his brother Barry Matthews' barbershop, Xquisite Styles, on Louisa Street.
He was steadily earning a following and had plans in the works to open his own location on St. Bernard Avenue. Then the pandemic hit. Instead of folding, Dee’s Xquisite Seafood soared.
Working off the street, Dee's was already set up for curbside pickup, which suddenly was the only way many people were getting their seafood fix. The Dee's crew would regularly sell out. Matthews added more people and more equipment, and he’d still sell out. There was a car line of customers stretching block after block.
As the business has grown, and Matthews needed more help, he turned to the men who have had his back all his life, friends from the old days growing up in the former Florida housing projects.
Since opening his first restaurant the lines have persisted. Matthews today says he plans to upgrade that first St. Bernard Avenue restaurant, bringing more of the expanded New Orleans East menu.
Expanding in the East
The new Lake Forest Boulevard restaurant is a big place, with a four-sided bar in the center of the room and a mix of high-top tables and banquette tables. All the tables are topped with Dee’s logo, a buttery crab come to life against the New Orleans skyline, based on a mural by artist Kentrice Schexnayder.
From the expanded menu, you can fill those tables with crabcake plates drizzled with Dee’s garlic butter sauce and chargrilled oysters that get a dose of the same sauce. There’s crusty, crunchy fried shrimp with a sweet, subtly spicy barbecue sauce and cheesy spinach dip. The pasta dishes are rich, with one bringing a thick, well-spiced cream sauce thoroughly coating linguine and a gleaming cut of seared salmon over the top.
Dee’s is a place that goes big all around. The boiled platters (called packages) are catering-sized trays that could feed a family, or perhaps keep your hands busy through all four quarters of a football game. They range from $30, for Dungeness crabs, shrimp, sides and turkey necks, on up to $120 with steaks, lobster tails and progressively larger combinations of crustaceans. Then there’s the outlier — the $400 “Big Easy Platter,” which is basically a fishing boat of seafood.
8700 Lake Forest Blvd.
Wed.-Sun. noon-8 p.m.
1401 St. Bernard Ave.
Wed.-Sun., 1-8 p.m.
(see updates on hours and availability at instagram.com/deesxquisite).
He cooked at Galatoire’s and on the street, now 8 Fresh Food Assassin is all his own
Maybe you can drive past a restaurant called 8 Fresh Food Assassin without wondering what it’s all about. I cannot. Pulling over to find out f…
Ian McNulty: At three Mid-City restaurants, a tour of Honduran flavor, bold and generous
You have to dig a bit for the fried chicken in the pollo con tajadas at Tia Maria’s Kitchen. But there’s no doubt it is the crispy-crusted, ju…
Tired of going to the same restaurants? Here's what's new, noteworthy around New Orleans
Known for its food and variety of flavors, the New Orleans restaurant scene has always been a top contender and is home to many classic and aw…
Love New Orleans food? Pull up a seat at the table. Join Where NOLA Eats, the hub for food and dining coverage in New Orleans.
Follow Where NOLA Eats on Instagram at @wherenolaeats, join the Where NOLA Eats Facebook group and subscribe to the free Where NOLA Eats biweekly newsletter here.
Email Ian McNulty at imcnulty@theadvocate.com.
More information
Ian McNulty: For Carmo’s next phase, deep flavors and an urgent message from the Amazon
The soup is everyday comfort food, at least back in the Amazon rainforest regions where it originates. But chef Dana Honn knows tacacá is an e…
Ian McNulty: This modern Lakeview restaurant starts with co*cktails, burgers, sense of fun
Shrimp toast is fun, and it turns out these triangles of crispy bread and soft, sesame-crusted shrimp spread are even better under a gravy-lik…
With lobster rolls and 'fluffy tacos,' new full-service food hall debuts in New Orleans
I started with a sandwich, because said sandwich was a lobster roll, and in the New Orleans summer, that alone can qualify as a meal-sized escape.
Ian McNulty: They never gave up, and now Vaucresson sausage is back where it all started
The juicy, rusty-red, pepper-shot Creole hot sausage that Vance Vaucresson makes by hand goes into lengths of Leidenheimer bread for po-boys, …
Ian McNulty
- Author email
Get email notifications on {{subject}} daily!
{{description}}
Email notifications are only sent once a day, and only if there are new matching items.
Followed notifications
Please log in to use this feature
Log In
Don't have an account? Sign Up Today